I came just back from the sepik. I "booked" with Joseph Kone from Pagwe (tel: +67571214829, firstname.lastname@example.org). He didn't go himself, but sent us with his nethew Ioannis, who is a good guide. It was all very realiable, we paid the money cash on arrival and didn't have any problems. We paid 800 kina per person per day in a group of 2 people. Would be 600 in a group of 4. We did 2 days middle and 2 days upper sepik.
We also had contact with Francistobias24@gmail.com from Angoram. He also left a good impression.
However, if I would do it again I wouldn't go with a guide. I mean, with a guide, cook and your own canoe it's very handy and relaxing. But expensive.
So, if you decide to go alone: I would just go 2-3 days. Take a PNV to Pagwe (there is enough transport). Then try to find a canoe that travels down the river. Sometimes there are 2, sometimes 40, and expect to wait some hours. But there will be some transport. Take the canoe 2 hours down to Palambei and visit the 2 spirit houses there. Cross the river and visit the 2 spirit houses in Kanganaman. Then go back to Wewak via Pagwe. It will all take 2-3 days. There are places to stay in every of these villages and once you've seen the 4 spirit houses there is not much that other places can add. We went to one at Chambre lake and one on the upper Sepik. Especially the one on the upper Sepik was different, but well, not very different. Also, the upper Sepik is hunted empty, so you will just see a few birds and no crocodiles. And the villages beyond Maliwei were boring.
And take enough water and food with you. You will likely not get it on the Sepik!
Besides, in the bigger villages you have mobile reception with Digicel, but not with Vodafone.
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