We booked a 7 days trip in the upper sepik in August 2023 with starting date being the crocodile... read more
We booked a 7 days trip in the upper sepik in August 2023 with starting date being the crocodile... read more
While in PNG, I met one other solo traveler and we decided to split costs and travel together to... read more
We initially discovered this tour operator through previous reviews on Trip Advisor. My wife and I just returned from a trip up the Sepik River with this company, followed by a brief hiatus at the Wewak Boutique Hotel; and then on to Mt. Hagen for the big Cultural Show/Sing-Sing. The latter was handled by Paiya Tours, and I wrote a separate review on that experience. I would say, however, that my time on the Sepik River was my favorite part of the trip - even though it was an afterthought arranged around the big event in Mt. Hagen. My wife and I called this trip “arduous and awesome.”
The agency is owned by a Brit, Sue Baker and a native of a Sepik River Village, Chris Karis. We almost cancelled because we had heard so much about the dangers of robbery and inter-tribal violence. I’m glad we didn’t and I would credit Sue’s many emails back and forth with us so I felt fully informed about what we were getting into. Actually, we found the people, particularly on the River, to be very friendly - constantly waving to us, shaking our hands and greeting us wherever we went.
Another thing Sue did well is prepare us for what to expect in terms of staying in local villages, and eating their diet. Paiya Tours, on the other hand, didn’t sufficiently lower our expectations about accommodations. This trip is not for everyone, as you average four hours a day, sometimes longer, in a dugout canoe (bring a folding chair from REI for back support, and an umbrella for shade).
We both lost 6-8 pounds on this trip with a steady diet of sago, fresh pineapple, papaya, bananas, soda crackers and canned meat. We slept in villages where we had a pad and a mosquito net, sometimes in a large room with everyone else; sometimes in separate rooms with thin woven palm walls. There was no plumbing, no electricity, no Internet, and although generators were used for a few hours a fellow traveler fried his battery charger using it. We washed in the River, and were constantly soaked through our clothes with the heat and humidity. It’s harder for women with an outhouse, sometimes with a seat, sometimes with a slit trench; whereas for men it’s culturally okay to pee anywhere.
So here is the awesome part: we were in a village when the Chief (or “Big Man”) returned from a hunt with seven crocodiles. The whole clan clambered to the riverbank, and then laid out palm leaves, and proceeded to skin and dress the crocs to prepare for a feast. It was quite an experience. Because we’d given the chief coffee and sugar, and sandpaper for his mask making (as Sue’s suggestion); he gave us a crocodile tail which our cook prepared for us over a small fire inside the hut where we stayed that night. It was the best meal of our time on the river. The Chief also showed us a carved board that once held skulls, and told us a story about how his grandfather tried to defend the village and killed four men from a neighboring clan. He and six other men were arrested, and convicted of murder. They spent seven years at hard labor, and then were publicly hanged. Inter-tribal warfare, and paybacks was a part of the culture until then; and the hangings were an effort to stop these practices. So we got a fascinating first-hand look at their cultural history.
We also visited several spirit houses and were told about the initiation of boys and young men which involved ritual scarification on their chest and back to simulate crocodile skin. To see photos of this go to my blog at: http://papuanewguinea2015.blogspot.com. Then to prepare them to be fully men they are instructed in tribal lore, as well as how to build a canoe and a house. Men could have more than one wife, if they could afford the bride price, and build her a house separate from the first wife. Men in one spirit house drummed for us, and at another we attended a small sing-sing organized by Chris in his village. It was a highlight, particularly men dressed in elaborate masks as forest spirits (see video on my blog).
We also attended the Crocodile Festival - which I ended up enjoying even more that the big Mt. Hagen Sing-Sing. It is much smaller, attended by only a few dozen tourists. I was able to photograph at will, and was sometimes ushered through the crowd of locals so I could get a better vantage point to film the action (see my blog).
So if you can put up with the primitive immersion it is a rich cultural experience. And going with a tour group that didn’t put you in villages would shield you from the people to a greater extent. Yet my wife and I being a group of two, we were accompanied by our own guide, a boat driver, a cook and a bowman. There were times we were doubled up with other guests, but Sue made an effort to give us a more personal experience with the locals by not having us be part of a large group of tourists.
We also got personalized attention when we decided to ship our souvenirs from the River villages back to the States. We were wrongly advised that Australian customs would be particularly hard on us, so we shipped a number of “artifacts” home. Chris was particularly helpful in this endeavor, taking us around to stores to find tape, & wrapping paper; and helping us get a certificate verifying the items weren’t contaminated. The package arrived at our house the day before we did with no breakage. We subsequently bought other things as well and had no problem with customs either in Australia (where we stayed overnight), or the United States. Just don’t try to bring back animal products (feathers, skins, etc.) or seeds.
But to be prepared for the “arduous part,” I would recommend you bring the following:
1. Fold-up chair for back support in the dugout.
2. Toilet paper (yours will be the only you see).
3. A small air mattress (their mattresses are pretty hard).
4. Mosquito repellant (Consumer Reports says the best contains Picaridin).
5. Sun block, and an umbrella for shade.
6. Small plastic animals from a party store as gifts for kids.
7. Gifts for adults: sandpaper for mask makers, Tylenol, coffee, sugar & cheap headlamps (and bring a headlamp for yourself - especially if you plan to go to the outhouse after dark, or look in your suitcase for something).
Recently, I was traveling around Papua New Guinea for three weeks and had Sepik river on the agenda. As a single female traveller, I was looking for a guide who could organize my transport from Wewak to Sepik and around the Sepik River. I checked with a few guides including Mathew Alois who is recommeded by Lonely Planet. The price for a single person was consistantly high by all of them. I ended up using a guy called Mathew Kaku, who is the head of the village at Wagu and owner of the guesthouse there. Unfortunately, after I got there and asked around, I realized that the price I paid was ridiculously high and almost double what it could be (i paid 4500 kina for three days two of which was spent on transportation!!!) and didn't get to see any of the places that I was promissed to. If you want to see Wagu lake and upper Sepik, which I highly recommend, stay away from using Mathew Kaku as a guide but rather organize your own trip (and to the ladies out there: don't worry about public boats they are just as secure as private ones and your can hire a private boat on the spot if you prefer a private boat). If you decide to do it all on private transportation, the cost of a private car from Wewak to Pagwi is around 600 kina and private boat from Pagwi to Wagu around the same price. So a private transfer from Wewak to Wagu, round trip should not be more than 2400 kina while I paid 4500 Kina!!! Ouch!!!!
Its pricey to get to Sepik River, but I can promise you, it will be the best money you have ever spent. People are so friendly, whether it being offering help, food or cultural insight. I spent with a guide called Joseph Kone (mail: joseph.kone6 (at) gmail.com) which i found online. He was a great guy that tailored made a program for my buddy and I. We even stayed with his family for a couple of nights. Prepare for endless hours of smiling, boat driving, relaxing and talking.
Loved staying in the villages with the locals and sharing what we had. They opened their homes and hearts to us. A one of experience.
the Sepik is an amazing place , so are the people, its not cheap but worth it!!! avoid by all cost a guid name "CYRIL" from a village Kaminabit, a real skilled hustler !!! with the food you buy for yourself for the trip he feeds his family, a real nightmare!!! a recommended guid: Joseph from Ambunti: email@example.com Tel Cell: 675-71214829.
Reliable, honest, a real gentelmen, a bit expensive bt try to negotiate the price.
Sepik river is very rewarding experience of remote travel in PNG. You will travel a lot by boat, many villages along the river side, village life beauty. Quite unbelievable, but there is mobile phone coverage in about every village by the river in the Sepik even in upper Sepik more remote like Wagu village.
There are more villages in middle and upper sepik with focus on spririt houses and very nice carving. Upper Sepik is more remote, takes more hours by boat to reach but you get to visit more nature and beautiful places and villages that blend into the nature with their way of life.
If you have read and liked reviews about the Wagu village and the Hustein mountain range and Wagu lake, do make sure that you stay more than a single night there. Matthew’s guesthouse is by far the best place to overnight in the whole Sepik region. And the village is large and full of activity, people fishing, building houses and canoes and kids playing. THere are also possible jungle walks and birds of paradise to sightsee, and of course the crocodiles.
The best resource of information by far is the very friendly Alois Mateos (he has a new mobile number, 7265 6367). Contact him in any case, to stay in Wewak for a couple of nights, to ask for recommendation of guides in Sepik or contacts to islands in front of Wewak. He also arranges tours to Sepik, but if you are alone, the prices will definitely frighten you off (around 6000-8000 kina for one person, four days).
Sepik is very very expensive, my first advice is don’t be put off with prices of guides and trips to get you there. Once you arrive to the remote villages, you will see how the locals also have to pay a lot to get the most basic things like rice or travel to neighbouring villages. But most of their living is self-subsistent, fishing and hunting. When preparing to go to the Sepik, take bottled water and most basic food like rice. You can buy most things in Pagwi and Ambunti, but the prices are quite expensive. You can fish and buy their potatoes, but items like rice come from the city by boat.
Wagu lakes and wagu village is highly recommended, both for nature and interaction with local very friendly people. Contact the head of the village, Mathew Kaka (7378 6776), who runs a guest house in Wagu. The village is on the upper Sepik, and it’s about 1.5 hour by canoe full speed from Ambunti. There is no regular transportation there, you will have to hire boat and driver or guide. A german friend of Matthew has put up a site for announcing the direct connection to Wagu village, www.sepiktours-individualrates.de. I also recommend that way, since you then make sure your tourist money stays where it is needed the most.
Matthew or someone from his family will pick you up where you arrive, can be at Ambunti, Pagwi, or even Wewak. Everything in Sepik can be highly unreliable in terms of trip times and what’s included. If the boat engine stops or other happenings. Take a relaxed approach at it.
Matthew will be forced to spend more fuel with the boat trips to pick you up then if you take an Ambunti based guide like Joseph, but on the other hand if you want to take a couple of days in Wagu (highly recommended 2-3 days) you will want to take directly with Matthew.
While most other villages in the Sepik are about the spirit houses and the carvings, Wagu is about remote village life and nature surrounding it. So pick your interest.
A bunch of other guides are also recommended: Chris and Philip (Palembei, Angoram), Joseph (Ambunti), Mathew (Wagu). You should chat with Alois Mateos about his prices and these guides depending on the part of the Sepik you want to visit.