Tiny place, came recommended by our hotelier. Always a little line outside though. On our third attempt we were convinced by a couple of charming locals to wait for the table. The owner confirmed maybe 30 minutes; we bought a beer from him and waited and had a delightful chat with two friends from Coimbra who happen to work on the island of Madeira-- as prison guards! One, Marco, had the deepest voice of any human I've ever heard. Remarkable. Anyway, once inside we ordered a bottle of wine and of course the specialty of the house-- long simmered bones-- pork neck bones. Made for some fine eating. We also had sardines a couple of ways-- grilled and chilled with vinegar, and grilled fresh. There was also tomato salad and desert. Dinner for two was $25. Stunned.

We waited with many others. On 19:35 someone came out saying there are only 7 tables that were quickly filled.
Be warned.