We booked a political tour on advice from a friend and were glad we did. Charlie took us around the neighborhoods most affected by The Troubles. He offered the history behind key sites and murals. While most of the tour touched on the sad, violent realities of those times, Charlie was sure to point out the hope of a peaceful future. He had markers for us to sign the Peace Wall. The tour is illuminating and time well spent while in Belfast.

As an American, it’s so hard to appreciate what the Troubles mean. I worried it was “too soon” and might feel disrespectful to take such a tour. But our driver was very candid about how even though he’s lived through a lot, he is passionate about educating visitors. He acknowledged the impossible nature of being objective. But he took us to see the murals and memorials in Unionist and Republican neighborhoods. The difference in how each side still perceives the other is striking. We were surprised to learn the walls have only gotten higher since the Good Friday treaty - but peace has remained. All in all, it was a very moving and educational experience.