The great architect, Sinan's creation, using his technique for distributing the weight of its massive dome has survived seismic shock, cultural and religious change. From church, through mosque to museum, from Byzantium, Constantinople, to Istanbul, Ayasofya has seen it all.

The rooftop restaurant and bar sits between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. As well as the nice food and friendly service, it is fun to be there in the late afternoon when the rival muezzins from the two mosques take it in turns to outdo each other with their calls to prayer.

This is very much a working mosque, so may not be open to visitors all day every day, during prayers. If you have mistimed your visit by an hour or so, check out the adjacent Hippodrome while you cool your heels. The view of the Blue Mosque, looking out over the Bosphorus is best from the rooftop of the Pierre Loti Hotel.

A well-heeled and bustling area, offering good nighttime views over the Bosphorus of the illuminated mosques on the other side. It is home to many restaurants, none better than....

Meze, by Lemon Tree. Simply, one of the very best restaurants in Istanbul. Its sophistication is in its simplicity. Delicious food. Booking essential.

The trophies, artefacts, regalia and jewels of Empire displayed at Topkapi are stunning, in both number and quality. Equally stunning is the view across the Bosphorus to the bridge linking Europe to Asia. There is a cafe/restaurant which shares this view immediately below the Sultan's viewing balcony.

So cool, so quiet, teeming with fish moving silently around its myriad of columns, this is well worth the wait in line in the hot sun or retina-scorching brightness outside.

Close by the entrance to the Cistern is this pleasant restaurant garden which serves excellent traditional Turkish food at no-rip-off prices. Leaving here and turning left brings you, after a couple of hundred yards to.......

The Grand Bazaar is surely the blingiest, biggest, most fascinating in the Middle East. If you can't find it here, it probably doesn't exist. The best buys are leather goods, jewellery and spices like saffron, which are expensive elsewhere. Go on, have a haggle.

Lined with fishermen, shoulder to shoulder, their long lines trailing down to the sea below. Yes, they do actually catch fish here, and there are small stalls where they will incinerate them for you. The main tram line crosses this bridge.

This is where the Orient Express used to arrive in the days before budget travel.

An evening spent in this lovely garden, eating some of the best food in Istanbul (or anywhere else, for that matter) is not to be missed. The deal is all-in for around 30 euros, which includes abundant, delicious food, really good quality Turkish wines, beers, rakis ad-lib . The grilled octopus is to die for. A top experience.

Terrific service, and an excellent place for breakfast (any style), brunch, lunch or an afternoon snack. Great view of the Blue Mosque from the rooftop restaurant. This is also a good value, spotlessly clean hotel, at the heart of the city's attractions.

It's big. It's surrounded on all sides by whopping great hotels. It's corporate Turkey. It's where people come at weekends to protest at Erdogan's policies and policing.

Located opposite the antique tram terminus, at the Beyoglu end of Taksim Square, this is a handy place to people watch or take a light lunch. It's part of the Marmara Hotel.

This is new, upwardly mobile Istanbul. There's an Apple shop, theatre, auditorium, Raffles Hotel and a thousand other ways to melt your plastic. The Metro will get you back to the interesting bits of the city in 5 or 10 minutes.

Great evening outlook over the Bosphorus towards the Blue Mosque and its neighbours.

Old school Istanbul grandeur, once faded (the entire staff went on strike for years in the 1980's, closing the hotel), but now carefully restored. Classy cocktail bar.