All Articles Head to Coney Island for summer fun

Head to Coney Island for summer fun

Sun and sand just a subway ride away.

By Laura Begley BloomJul 21, 2023 6 minutes read
Seagulls flying over people at the beach, with rollercoasters and Nathan's Famous hot dogs blurred in distance
Photo: Unsplash/Brian Kyed

“There’s something special about the air in Coney Island, the atmosphere, the spirit of this place. It embodies inclusivity,” says D.J. Vourderis, the grandson of Denos Vourderis, who founded Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park. “We all have these devices that are supposed to be connecting us to each other, but all they do is disconnect us emotionally. Coney Island is a place where you go to find yourself again, to reconnect with humanity.”

Vourderis should know: He’s been coming to Coney Island since he was a little boy. Now he helps run his family’s amusement park, which is named for the landmark Ferris wheel that his grandfather bought as a gift for his grandmother. “Even if you don't go on the rides, you can just sit on the boardwalk and people-watch and have a good time—and that’s what life’s about,” says Vourderis.

Left: Vourderis walking through yellow gates; Center: Rinn wearing black-and-white blazer standing in room with blue walls; Right: Black-and-white photo of Byrd's profile, while he's wearing glasses
D.J. Vourderis (L), Adam Rinn (C), David Lawrence Byrd (R)

The last time The WeekEnder visited Coney Island it was in the dead of winter. While there’s something appealing about having the beach to yourself on a cold December day, summer is when Coney Island shines. So join us on a visit to this seaside destination in southwestern Brooklyn where New Yorkers have been flocking for sun, sand, entertainment, and boardwalk eats for generations.

Adam Rinn (a.k.a. Adam Realman) knows all about this history. He’s a sword swallower who is now the artistic director of Coney Island USA, a nonprofit arts organization that’s home to the area’s last remaining sideshow, a museum, a music venue, and other flashy cultural attractions like a burlesque series. “I grew up in Coney Island, which is the absolute greatest backyard that a person could have,” says Rinn, who points out that there’s no other place in New York City where you can have so many different experiences. “You’ve got miles of boardwalk, you’ve got rides, you’ve got the sideshow, you’ve got history. Fast food was created in Coney Island with the invention of the hot dog. American amusements were born here.”

This is from The WeekEnder series: local insider guides for new destinations a short drive from New York City, delivered to your inbox twice a month. Sign up here!

Coney Island is also visually appealing to New Yorkers like David Lawrence Byrd, a graphic designer and photographer who creates posters for local events like the annual Mermaid Parade. “There’s a raw grittiness to Coney Island that you don’t really see too much in New York anymore—it’s a peek into a window of the past,” says Byrd. “I think everybody should go to Coney at least once in their life if they’ve never been. It’s a pretty magical place.”

I couldn’t agree more. In this issue of the WeekEnder, we’re showing you the spots with the biggest energy and old-school boardwalk charm.

Where to stay

There aren’t many places to stay in Coney Island, but you can turn this into a full-on beach getaway by tacking on a nearby hotel, a visit to the Rockaways (another WeekEnder favorite), or using this as a jumping-off point for a Staten Island visit.

Chic, modern lobby with built-in shelves holding vases, a cream sofa, and rattan chairs
The Rockaway Hotel

For beach lovers: The Rockaway Hotel in Rockaway Beach

Just across Jamaica Bay is this beachy boutique hotel with expansive views of the water and a surf’s-up vibe. It’s got a serious art collection, an impressive music lineup with performances by acts like G Love, and a cool rooftop pool.

Left: Corner exterior of building with mix of glass windows and stone bricks; Right: Guest room with blue carpet and ceiling, white tufted headboard that curves onto the ceiling, and gold bedding
Best Western Plus Brooklyn Bay Hotel (L), Wyndham Garden Brooklyn (R)

For families: Best Western Plus Brooklyn Bay Hotel in Sheepshead Bay

Located in a pretty waterfront location in nearby Sheepshead Bay, just a 10-minute drive from Coney Island’s amusement district, this isn’t your average Best Western. You’ll find spacious rooms, New York City-inspired artwork, and even a free breakfast.

For an affordable stay: Wyndham Garden Brooklyn in Sunset Park

A straight shot on the N train will take you to leafy Sunset Park. This eco-friendly hotel has earned high marks—and a Tripadvisor Traveler’s Choice award—for its futuristic design, cleanliness, and proximity to spots like Industry City (a warehouse complex with great places to eat) and the park itself for eye-popping views of the Statue of Liberty.

Where to eat

Iconic eats on and off the boardwalk.

Breakfast

Blue exterior of Tom's Coney Island with "Soarin' Eagle" rollercoaster behind it
Tom’s Coney Island

Tom’s Coney Island - A neighborhood gem known for its countless flavors of pancakes (sweet potato, lemon ricotta, mango walnut) served with homemade flavored butters.

Lunchtime

Left: Hand holding up hot dog with cheese in front of Nathan's; Right: Exterior of Paul's Daughter with large fake people holding up a burger and mug of beer
Nathan’s Famous (L), Paul’s Daughter (R)

Nathan’s Famous - Sure, you can find Nathan’s in supermarkets, as well as restaurants around the country—but there is nothing like the taste of a classic dog from the original 1916 location on the corner of Stillwell and Surf, and the menu hasn’t changed much since it opened.

Paul’s Daughter - This boardwalk seafood joint has been serving crispy fried clams and buttery lobster rolls for over six decades. “Everyone knows Nathan’s, but for me, Paul’s is a staple: It’s got excellent food on the boardwalk,” says Vourderis.

Global flavors

Chicken wings with sweet chili sauce next to pickled veggies
Footprints Cafe

Doña Zita - Doña Zita has a mostly local following, maybe because it’s hidden down a tiny street next to Luna Park. “It’s my favorite Mexican place,” says Byrd. “I get a different thing every time I go there, but you can’t go wrong with the tacos.”

Footprints Cafe - With a menu of jerk chicken, fried plantains, and rasta pasta, plus live reggae nights, Footprints is the next best thing to a Caribbean vacation.

Casual bites

Left: Aerial view of pepperoni pizza atop a metal pan on a red table; Right: Hand dipping chicken tender into ketchup next to other tenders, fries, and a glass of beer
Totonno’s (L), Coney Island Brewery (R)

Totonno’s - One of the oldest pizzerias in New York City, Totonno’s has been making Neapolitan-style pies with thin, charred crust since 1924. Pro tip: Don’t go too late, since it closes on the early side, and the lines can be long.

Coney Island Brewery - Local brews and upscale comfort food, including vegan dishes (which are hard to find in Coney Island). “They put a lot of thought into what they’re brewing. You’ve got to order a flight, which is a sampler of everything that they make there,” says Rinn. “The vegan lobster rolls are mad good.”

Date night

Elegant dining room with high ceilings, big windows, a chandelier, and white-clothed tables
Gargiulo’s

Gargiulo’s - Step back in time at this Coney Island institution, which has been serving up Italian-American classics (veal parmigiana, seafood linguine) since 1907. “A classy old-school Italian place,” says Rinn. “In the summer, they open up their pizza garden and it’s got a killer brick oven for pizza.”

Drinks

Colorful interior of bar with retro seating and various objects like a colorful disco ball
Freak Bar

Freak Bar - Vintage arcade games and local microbrews on tap set the scene at this colorful bar on the ground floor of the Coney Island USA building. “My home base here is usually the Freak Bar—which is the main thing that drew me to this area,” says Byrd.

Sweets

Left: Two kids holding large ice cream cones outside of parlor; Right: Display case of various candied apples with sprinkles, nuts, and other toppings
Coney’s Cones (L), Williams Candy (R)

Coney’s Cones - A vintage-style ice cream parlor that offers up a taste of Europe on the beach with 48 different kinds of gelato and sorbet (including offbeat flavors like stracciatella), plus Italian ice, French crêpes, Belgian waffles, and more.

Williams Candy - For 75 years, this has been the place for all kinds of candy apples, marshmallow sticks dipped in chewy caramel, and fudge. “Another iconic establishment in Coney Island that serves up the best sweets,” says Vourderis.

What to do

Coasters, bumper cars, and other rides

Here’s where you can laugh, scream, and ride hand-carved horses.

Top of rollercoaster, with "Cyclone" displayed and three cars of people going down it
The Cyclone in Luna Park

Deno’s Wonder Wheel Amusement Park - This park is a true family affair, run by the children and grandchildren of Denos Vourderis, who bought the Wonder Wheel in 1983. Don’t miss the new Phoenix roller coaster, the Tilt-A-Whirl, Spook-A-Rama (a dark ride filled with jump-scares), and—of course—the Wonder Wheel. “My hands-down favorite spot is the Wonder Wheel: It’s a five-minute therapy session,” says Rinn. “I’ve been on it hundreds of times and it just doesn’t matter what’s going on, it frees your head.”

Luna Park - Inspired by the original Luna Park, which operated from 1903 to 1944, this new version debuted in 2010. The centerpiece is the Cyclone, a wooden roller coaster that has been thrilling visitors since 1927. Other must-try rides include the Thunderbolt (a breathtaking steel coaster with a 90-degree drop), the Sling Shot (which launches you 150 feet into the air), and the B&B Carousell (a restored historic carousel with hand-carved horses).

Eldorado Auto Skooter - The motto for this pint-sized amusement spot says it all: Bump Your Ass Off. “It’s an old-school arcade in the back and bumper cars in the front. They’ve got the best sound system in Coney Island,” says Rinn.

Beyond the rides

Left: Person breathing out fire while holding two torches; Right: Baseball field at sunset, with rollercoasters in the distance
Coney Island USA (L), MCU Park (R)

Want to take a break from the thrills? From baseball to sword-swallowing to the beach itself, Coney Island has no shortage of entertainment.

Coney Island Beach - This sandy shoreline stretches for miles. “You can go on the beach, not spend a dime, and have a great time,” says Vourderis. “They have a volleyball court, sprinklers for the kids, and it’s great for people-watching.”

Coney Island USA - Located in a landmarked building built 107 years ago, this vibrant space celebrates pop culture in Coney Island—and beyond. Check out the last remaining sideshow in the area with a cast of human daredevils (fire-eaters, sword-swallowers, contortionists), Burlesque at the Beach (the world’s longest running burlesque series), monthly drag shows, a music venue that is like a modern-day CBGB, and the only accredited museum in the world dedicated to Coney Island history.

New York Aquarium - The oldest continually operating aquarium in the country keeps things fresh with installations like a shark exhibit that makes you feel like you’re underwater with fins gliding right by you. Not a Jaws fan? There’s plenty of other marine life here—from graceful stingrays to playful sea lions. And educational programming teaches the importance of ocean conservation along with cool animal facts.

Brooklyn Cyclones Baseball - MCU Park - Get all the excitement of a minor league baseball game while taking in the picturesque views of the boardwalk at MCU Park, home to the Brooklyn Cyclones. Check the schedule in advance and grab tickets to cheer on the home team.

Laura Begley Bloom
Laura Begley Bloom is a travel expert and content strategist who writes for a wide range of magazines and websites and appears regularly on television outlets ranging from the Weather Channel to CNN. Journalism is part of Laura's heritage. Her great great grandfather was a Civil War correspondent for the Chicago Tribune. You can learn more about Laura on laurabegleybloom.com.