A Peruvian's guide to chifa and nikkei

Today, the streets of Peru’s biggest cities are sprinkled with restaurants serving chifa, a harmonious blend of Chinese and Peruvian flavors and cooking techniques, and nikkei fare, an eclectic mashup of Japanese and Peruvian food. But don’t go around calling them “Chinese-Peruvian” or “Japanese-Peruvian” food—these incredible cuisines have formed a reputation all their own.

The two styles showcase not only intense flavor with each bite, but also a deep, century-old history. After Peru abolished slavery in the 1800s, nearly 90,000 Chinese men, mostly Cantonese, came to the country to work as indentured servants. They brought over ingredients like ginger, soy sauce, and scallions, and started melding them with items found in their new land, like potatoes, pineapples, and bananas. Thus, chifa, which translates from Cantonese to “to eat,” was born.

Nikkei kicked off similarly, with diplomatic relations between Japan and Peru beginning just before the turn of the 19th century. Lured by the advertised prospect of a paradise-like setting, thousands of Japanese men and women sailed to Peru, only to then be offered menial labor. Those who stayed created a new life—and cuisine—for the next generation.

The influences of those early Japanese and Cantonese settlers exist in today’s Peruvian chefs, including the Miami-based James Beard award-winning Valerie Chang of Maty’s and her equally talented brother, Nando, at Itamae AO. Growing up in Chiclayo, Peru, the siblings followed in the culinary footsteps of their chef father, Fernando, who is ethnically Chinese, and their uncles, who oftentimes made ceviche at the beach from the clams that they dug up along the shore. “A lot of my cooking today as a professional has to do with nostalgia and the memories I have from growing up,” Nando says. “The dishes you see on Itamae AO’s present menu are based on those memories to try and give my guests the food experiences I had.”

Below, the chifa and nikkei dishes on the Chang siblings’ must-try list for any traveler in Peru—and where to find them in Lima.

What happens when a Japanese mochi is combined with a Peruvian yuca? You get a yucamochi, a delicious dessert that stays true to its original form—with a little modification. “A traditional Japanese mochi is sweet, and this version is adapted in Peru to be made with yuca instead of glutinous rice, but both are very similar in texture,” Nando explains.

A consistent entry on The World’s Best List, this restaurant is helmed by the Lima-born Mitsuhara Tsumura, who spent much of his on-the-job culinary training in Japan. Japanese for “welcome,” Maido serves an ever-changing, multi-course nikkei menu, with upwards of 12 artfully assembled dishes served at each meal. If you’re lucky, the finale will include the yucamochi, Tsujura’s take on the fusion dish, oftentimes presented in inventive fashion.

Tip: Dinner here, with its constant stream of meticulously plated courses, can last close to two (or more) hours, so leave plenty of time in your itinerary to enjoy it.

Tiraditos, an adaptation of the Spanish word “to throw,” are a staple of nikkei cuisine, but as Nando says, “you’re now able to find at traditional Peruvian restaurants—not just nikkei-focused ones—with many variations, depending on the time of year.” At their core, tiraditos consists of raw fish that’s cut in long strips and then “thrown” (hence the Spanish name) with citrus juices to cook, similar to ceviche. But unlike ceviche, which is marinated in citrus, tiraditos are sauced shortly before serving. From there, the sky’s the limit on creative interpretations.

Located on a tree-lined corner in Lima’s San Isidro neighborhood, Shizen Restaurante Nikkei is run by a trio of friends who bring innovation to the cuisine. Not surprisingly, the main attractions are the ceviches and tiraditos, all of which you can see being prepared at the counter from your seat. The tiradito de conchas de Casma is a must-order.

Tip: Sharing is caring at Shizen, where plates are generally placed at the center of the table for all to enjoy.

A favored chifa dish made with fried boneless chicken morsels, chijaukay is covered with a special oyster sauce or Chu-Hou paste and traditionally served with rice. A hint of ginger adds a gentle kick. “While it might sound like a traditional Chinese dish, in Peru we have adapted it by using our ingredients, like aji limo or aji rocoto,” says Valerie.

It’s hard to imagine a more authentic chifa-style restaurant than Chifa Chung Tong, a 30-plus-year-old family-run spot where the bold flavors are matched by the scores of bright red paper lanterns that hang from the ceiling. But it’s not the decor you’re coming here for—it’s the food, which includes a traditional chijuakay dish with housemade stock and a newer, spicy version with roasted chili seeds.

Indentured Cantonese workers used to receive rice rations, which they’d use to mix with leftovers and soy sauce in a frying pan. The result became arroz chaufa, which has evolved over the years to become one of Peru’s most versatile dishes thanks to its ability to incorporate beef, chicken, or seafood, plus loads of vegetables. It’s one of Valerie’s favorite meals, mostly because “it reminds me of Sundays with my grandmother, Martha, an incredible home cook.” Her biggest tip? “Always order an encurtido along with hot sauce,” says Valerie, referring to a side of spicy pickled vegetables. “We like everything spicy.”

Flavor bombs are everywhere inside this elegant Lima restaurant, which serves up generously portioned, family-style chifa dishes. There’s a whole menu page devoted to arroz chaufa and its seemingly endless variations with duck, prawns, Chinese sausage, veggies, and more.

Tip: Plan properly because like most Lima restaurants, Chifa Tita closes early on Sundays, at 3:45 p.m., and doesn’t reopen until Tuesday.