6 must-visit ruins in Mexico City
It's not all about Chichén Itzá.
Newsflash: Chichén Itzá isn’t the only pyramid in Mexico worth going to. In fact, the sprawling capital, Mexico City, is home to a dozen archeological sites as well as many within easy driving distance. Some are hidden in the heart of the historic center while others make for a better day trip, tucked away in national parks and dense forests that'll feel like you teleported to another—more mystical—world.
So if you’re ready to channel your inner Indiana Jones, these are my favorite sites from over 20 years of exploring the country.
For an iconic pyramid: Teotihuacán
There’s a reason why Teotihuacán is one of the most famous archeological sites in Mexico. In the Mesoamerican city, which covers about eight square miles, you can find various pyramids, plazas, and palaces of priests and nobles. It’s home to the Pyramid of the Sun, which towers above the rest at 216 feet high, making it one of the tallest ruins in the Western Hemisphere. Teotihuacán also contains the Pyramid of the Moon, the Ciudadela (“Citadel”), and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Feathered Serpent). In fact, the pyramids are so massive—and downright dominating—that you really couldn’t miss them, even if you tried.
Beyond their sheer size, they have an interesting cultural relevance, too. Back in the day—as early as 400 B.C.—locals from other cities in this region (like Tenochtitlán and Tlaxcala, more on those later), all gathered at Teotihuacán. It eventually grew to be a trading hub and the most wealthy metropolis in all of ancient Mesoamerica.
Tip: Avoid visiting on Sundays and Mondays. Mexican residents and citizens have free access to Teotihuacán on Sundays, so it tends to get crowded. And, most Mexico City museums are closed on Mondays, meaning a lot of tourists head to Teotihuacán instead. I recommend going on Tuesday or Wednesday, when it’s much quieter.
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For a nature park: Desierto de los Leones
While Teotihuacán and The Templo Mayor draw major crowds, you’ll have Despierto de los Leones all to yourself. Plus, it’s completely free and open year-round. This lesser-known national park, in the southern borough of Cuajimalpa de Morelos, definitely deserves a full day of your Mexico City itinerary. Don’t believe me? Despierto de los Leones is one of the country’s largest national parks, set in the hills surrounding Valle de México. (Note: Wear warm clothing for this outing as the forest is a bit misty and chilly due to its high elevation.)
You’ll need plenty of time to explore its hiking trails, rich biodiversity, and historic ruins, including a 17th-century monastery. My advice: Pack a picnic and make a day of it. La Esquina del Chilaquil makes an excellent torta, a traditional Mexican sandwich, that travels well and tastes just as good.
Tip: Getting here can be a bit of a headache on public transit. Save yourself the hassle and have your hotel arrange a ride ahead of time. It’s easier to take a (verified) taxi, pay for them to wait, and drive you back to Mexico City at the end of the day.
For a central stop: Templo Mayor
You don’t have to go far to see these Aztec ruins. Smack dab in the heart of Centro Histórico, Templo Mayor is a sacred site; it served as a temple in Tenochtitlán, the former capital of the Aztec empire. Stroll around the ruins’ narrow pathways (it takes about 30 minutes total), and you’ll find that all roads lead to its well-curated museum. Inside, there are extensive exhibits showing figurines, tools, jewelry, and other artifacts that were recovered when the temple was excavated. I also really enjoyed the renderings of Tenochtitlán because it gave me a visual context to better understand the ancient city and Mexican civilization as a whole.
Tip: While you’re in the area, swing by Dulceria de Celaya for a sweet fix. This century-old candy shop is one of the prettiest in Mexico City, IMHO, and has rows of traditional treats like cajeta (dulce de leche), cocadas (coconut clusters), and mazapán (ground-peanut patties). Continue the food crawl at Churrería El Moro, a few blocks away. The fried dough is served with not one, not two, but eight types of hot chocolate.
For a well-preserved place: Zona Arqueológica Tenayuca
Step back in time and experience the Aztec empire in all its glory by taking a trip to Tenayuca, in the northern suburb of Tlalnepantla. This ruin is remarkably intact, giving you a clear view of rare archeological details. On the pyramid, take a closer look at the 100+ snake sculptures and intricate carvings that wrap around three sides of its base. The on-site museum also has five galleries that showcase various sculptures and carved stones from that period. (Keep in mind the displays are in Spanish.)
Tip: Tenayuca is very easy to get to via public transit—take the Metrobus Line 3 to the last stop—and you only need a half-day, including travel time.
For a small but mighty site: Plaza de las Tres Culturas
Blink and you might miss Plaza de las Tres Culturas. This tiny square hides in plain sight in Tlatelolco, a residential neighborhood in the north of Mexico City. But don’t judge it by its size—this ruin packs a big punch. The site is significant because it spans centuries of change, from the Aztec pyramids to the baroque Catholic church, a remnant of colonialism, to the 1960s-era modernist complex surrounding it. (One of these buildings now houses the Centro Cultural Universitario.) I’ve been hard-pressed to find anything else with this level of architectural diversity. It’s truly one-of-a-kind.
Tip: When hunger strikes, head five minutes south to El Pozole de Moctezuma. This apartment-turned-restaurant has been in business for 70 years, thanks to its loyal local customers. To get in, buzz the door labeled “pozole” and follow the scent of hearty meat soup wafting from the dining room. I always order a big bowl of the Guerrero-style green pozole.
For a remote ruin: Xochicalco
This tranquil hilltop city, overlooking Cuernavaca Valley, is one of my favorite places to escape the crowds. Xochicalco is 75 miles outside of Mexico City, and the site itself is super spread out, meaning you won’t have to share it with a soul. You’ll need about two hours to weave through the immaculate grounds and structures (there are many since Xochicalco was once a commercial, cultural, and religious center). You'll see the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent (Quetzalcóatl), multiple ball courts, an underground observatory, and an on-site museum.
Tip: To get the most out of this trip, book a guided tour of the complex. Vibe Adventures hosts a handful of options, including transportation from Mexico City and stops at other historic sites on the way.