Weekend in Salem, MA: The perfect fall getaway

Salem, Massachusetts—aka Witch City—is known as the spookiest spot in the U.S. But witches and ghosts are just part of the fun in this charming New England community. “The witch history isn’t the whole history,” says John Andrews, who founded the Creative Collective, an avant-garde grassroots organization that supports local businesses. “There was the maritime trade, and we have a very rich, very robust history of arts and culture.”

Andrews moved here 15 years ago to run a restaurant. Now he’s the force behind a company that tracks all the events happening in this hyper-creative city, a perfect resource for travelers. Some locals call him the unofficial mayor of Salem. “I totally fell in love with the people that I met—the artists, the makers, the performers, the characters,” he says. “Salem has so many unique humans—and I appreciate the fact that this is a place where people can be themselves.”

One unique human who helps bring this city to life is Karen Scalia, the founder of Salem Food Tours. She moved here from NYC, where she'd been doing event planning. Now this actress and storyteller runs a company that takes travelers on expeditions to sample the many flavors of this delicious city and experience its buzzing food scene. “What really put Salem on the map is our maritime and spice trade, and a lot of people don't know about that. They also don’t realize that we’re a seaside community,” says Scalia. “I started this company so that people can sample, sip, walk, and learn about our history and get to know our vibrant modern city.”

Another local doing their thing and living every historian's dream is Vijay Joyce. He’s the new executive director of the Pickering House, and one of the perks of the job is living in this historic location. Built in 1660, it’s not only the oldest house in Salem, it’s also one of the oldest residences in the country, once home to George Washington’s secretary of state (among other positions). “It’s like the Mount Vernon of Salem, and it’s so incredible to be taking care of this ancient home,” says Joyce, who just moved into the Pickering House a few weeks ago. “I’ll be watering the lawn or working in the garden and people will stop by to chat. I woke up this morning, made coffee, and walked across the street to the cemetery and looked at the gravestones.” In case you’re wondering: Yes, rumor has it the Pickering House is haunted—Joyce reveals that he has heard a few suspicious sounds in the middle of the night—proving that Salem’s spookiness isn’t just limited to October.

What is specific to October: crowds. Big crowds. So join us as we head to Salem before all the Halloween tourists descend to check out the food scene, get to know the city’s history, meet some interesting locals, and maybe bump into a ghost or two.

“Whatever you’re looking for—super classy, historic, modern, boutique, a cool downtown experience—you can find it in Salem. Our hotel scene is a reflection of us: a little bit of everything for everyone,” says Andrews.

According to locals, The Merchant—a 1784 mansion—is the most haunted building in Salem. “Every time I send people here, they rave about it,” says Joyce. “George Washington really did sleep here, and they’ve done an incredible job modernizing the property but not taking away the historic character. Plus, the hotel's right downtown, so you step outside your door and it’s all there.”

When Joyce got married, this is where he spent the night. “A classic from the 1900s,” he says. For Andrews, it’s all about the hotel’s tavern, which he calls “old school and very well done. They have a giant fireplace and big comfy chairs.”

A pirate suite, a Frozen-worthy ice castle, a medieval dungeon complete with skeletons and a fake guillotine—the themed rooms at this newly renovated hotel are the stuff of kids’ dreams.

Don Draper, eat your heart out. This mid-century-modern hotel set in a former department store is straight out of Mad Men, complete with the city’s only rooftop restaurant. “It’s a cool downtown experience,” says Andrews.

Located on the historic Pickering Wharf with easy access to a marina, this hotel’s nautical-inspired design reflects Salem’s maritime past. It’s also got a year-round heated indoor pool and outdoor fire pits to keep things cozy.

Scalia believes the electric energy in Salem’s food scene is the same kind that’s hit places like Brooklyn and Boston. “Food is the new rock and roll,” she says. Here’s what she and our other experts have on their radars.

Caramel French Patisserie - This French pastry shop starts your day off right with macarons, fruit-filled tarts, apple turnovers, and more. “The almond croissants are to die for,” says Scalia.

Wolf Next Door - Scalia loves this earth-friendly espresso bar with “great little breakfast sandwiches and cold brew.” There are also mind-blowing specials, like Mexican street corn-inspired mini frittatas and a vegan version of the Girl Scouts Caramel Delights (aka Samoa) cookie.

Odd Meter Coffee - With decadent treats like apricot ginger scones and coffee cake muffins, it’s no wonder this cozy coffee shop is Andrews’s top breakfast spot. And a heads up: It’s pumpkin-spice-latte season, and Odd Meter delivers.

A&J King Artisan Bakers - Jackie and Andy King met at the New England Culinary Institute, wrote a book called Baking By Hand, and opened up this sweet bakeshop in Salem. “They are known for their sourdough bread,” says Scalia. “Their caprese sandwich with tomato and mozzarella gives me life.”

Cheese Shop of Salem - Whether you’re hunting for picnic fixings or are just feeling snacky, you’ll adore this shop. “You can go in and sample all these different types of cheese,” says Joyce. “They also do grilled-cheese popups—it doesn’t get any better than that.”

Spitfire Tacos - “They are the best tacos in town,” says Andrews. His very Salem-appropriate order? The vampire taco.

Blue Fez - It's Morocco by way of Salem at Blue Fez. “They have a tasting plate with a little bit of everything,” says Scalia. Joyce loves it for the “really good hummus and the incredible falafel.”

Koto Asia Fusion - Koto combines the best Chinese, Japanese, and Thai flavors. “It’s probably some of the best Asian food I’ve had anywhere,” says Andrews. “I love me some sesame beef, and the lychee martini is amazing.”

Paprika Grill - Turkish street food is the name of the game at this little takeaway spot. “Their doner kebab is fantastic,” says Joyce. “It’s centrally located—right next to the Charter Street Cemetery and the Salem Witch Trials Memorial. They have outdoor patio seating that overlooks the cemetery, and it’s really cool to eat and people watch.”

Passage to India - “I’m a bit biased because I’m half Indian, but this is a great Indian restaurant,” says Joyce, who loves the palak paneer, a homemade cheese and spinach mixture with spices. “It’s very simple, but it is so good.”

Dire Wolf Tavern - A hip version of a wild west saloon, with exposed brick walls and cool artwork. “The aesthetic is great, and it’s always welcoming and friendly,” says Andrews. “They’ve got a great salmon dish, and I’m a sucker for a good cheeseburger, so the Wolf burger is my solid go-to.”

Bit Bar - At this barcade (aka, a “half restaurant half arcade,” says Andrews), you can play pinball, get some creative comfort food (general Tso’s cauliflower, fried chicken BLT), and enjoy craft cocktails.

Flying Saucer Pizza - “It’s a very nerdy place and all of the incredibly creative pizzas are named after Marvel characters and things of that sort,” says Joyce. “I love the Pickle Rick, a pickle pizza with olive oil, dill pickles, bacon, and ranch. It sounds weird, but it’s salty and really good.”

Settler - A husband-wife team created this sexy, loft-like restaurant where the sophisticated farm-to-table menu changes seasonally. “It’s a wonderful gourmet restaurant where the chefs use a lot of world-inspired ingredients,” says Scalia. Think Southern France, Italy, Spain, Egypt, and Morocco. But a heads up: Reservations open a month in advance and book up within a few hours.

Ledger - “Ledger is beautiful. They took an old bank building from the 1800s and put a new spin on it,” says Joyce. “A lot of the food is wood-fired. So they have some amazing meat, of course, but they’ll also smoke up some nuts and put them on ice cream, and it’s just incredible.” Come on Sundays for the hip hop brunch.

Holy Cow Ice Cream Cafe - This isn’t just any old ice cream shop: Holy Cow recently won an award for their Ritzy AF flavor, a salted butter blend with house-made Ritz Cracker toffee bark. But for Joyce, it’s all about the salted peanut butter Oreo.

E.W. Hobbs - This old-school dessert spot in the historic Willows district has been serving up sweet-and-salty popcorn since 1885 (don’t miss the wintergreen flavor).

Sea Level Oyster Bar - According to Scalia, the drink to order here is the Scary Mary. “It’s made with Bloody Mary mix, celery pepper, citrus, blue cheese, a stuffed olive, jumbo shrimp, oyster, bacon, a steak tip, and a half lobster that sits on top of the glass. It’s ridiculous and fun,” she says.

The Lobster Shanty - This is the home of another highly Instagrammable cocktail: the lobster martini, which takes the concept of a dirty martini to the next level, complete with vodka, lobster essence, a twist of lemon, and a lobster claw garnish.

Sometimes, it takes an expert to show you the best side of a city. Here are three passionate locals who know Salem inside out and will turn a simple weekend escape into a bucket-list journey.

Salem Food Tours - This tour company will give you a one-of-a-kind taste of Salem. By strolling around and sampling the savory and the sweet (from artisanal chocolates to offbeat spices), you’ll learn about the city’s rich past and its exciting present—plus you’ll meet some cool locals and see spots you might otherwise miss on your own. “My motto has always been, ‘Eat local, shop local, and support small businesses.’ That’s what gives places texture,” says Scalia.

Salem Uncovered - Jeffrey Lilley, a former Marine, has a big personality and a deep knowledge of history, and his tours make use of both. There are two options to choose from, including one devoted to the witch trials and another where you’ll learn about this city’s brutal murders, strange legal battles, secret passages, curses, and more.

Black Cat Tours - You can take historic walking tours during the day and ghost tours at night with this locally owned business that also runs the city’s only combo boat-and-walking tour. Want to hear the most terrifying tales? Check out the adults-only Moonlight Prowl.

From the historic houses to the museums, “you can come away with a completely different perspective, not just of the witch trials, but of all U.S. history because of how much there is to see here in Salem,” says Joyce. Here are a few of the highlights.

Pickering House - The oldest house in Salem “is not a museum, it’s a living home,” says Joyce. “You can tour the whole property—the barn, the house—and sit in the furniture and touch the objects. Yes, they’re old, but they’re made to be used.” You can see letters from George Washington, old spectacles, and architectural details that were cutting edge back in the day. Joyce and his team can also do private tours.

The House of the Seven Gables - Author Nathaniel Hawthorne’s 1851 book about an ancient curse that haunts two brothers put this colonial mansion on the map. “It’s incredible, not just because of its ancient nature, but because of its Hawthorne connection as well,” says Joyce.

Peabody Essex Museum - For more than 220 years, this museum has been collecting, preserving, and showcasing artwork from Salem and around the world. The fall exhibitions include The Salem Witch Trials 1692 (on view now) and Conjuring the Spirit World: Art, Magic, and Mediums (opening September 14). And a tip from Andrews: The shopping here is as awesome as the art.

Punto Urban Art Museum - In the neighborhood of El Punto, this open-air museum showcases spectacular murals and installations like the new Casa de Abuela, a recreation of a grandma’s house from the Dominican Republic. “It’s helped people discover some of the Dominican restaurants and explore some of the Dominican communities. And it’s a natural gateway to our waterfront,” says Andrews.

Herb Mackey’s Metal Sculpture Yard - A local resident named Herb Mackey built a quirky sculpture garden in the front yard of his house, which still lives on, even though its creator is gone. “Surrounding the house are all these creatures and characters,” says Andrews.

Salem has so many ways to enjoy the crisp fall air, from an old-fashioned neighborhood by the water to a lighthouse to great hiking trails.

Salem Willows - This area a little bit outside of town is an easy walk or bike ride (rent a set of wheels from BlueBikes). “It’s down a long road with a power plant, so most people see that and think there’s nothing down there, but it’s one of the most well-preserved Victorian seaside communities in America, with houses on the ocean and an arcade with games and restaurants,” says Joyce. “It’s usually pretty quiet, and as a local, I like to go there for that reason.”

Derby Wharf Light Station - “If you want to get an idea of what Salem was like at its height, this is the place to go,” says Joyce. “It’s a little compound with a wharf that extends a quarter of a mile out into the ocean with a lighthouse at the end of it, a reconstructed ship from the 18th century, and old houses that you can visit.”

Winter Island Park - This waterfront park has a gorgeous beach, great walking trails, and the remnants of an old fort to explore.

Mahi Mahi Harbor Cruises - From May to November, you can head out on cruises in the harbor. Andrews is a big fan of the live music sailings. “I’ve seen some of the best performances,” he says.

In an age where so many shops sell the same mass-produced stuff, Salem’s retail scene is a breath of fresh air. “You get all these independent stores,” says Joyce. “Plus, these people care about the impact that they’re having on their community.” And this is Witch City, so you can expect some spooky shopping.

Vampfangs - In the market for a set of realistic vampire teeth? This is your stop. “And if you want to go to a cool event, the ball that they host in September—Endless Night—is one of the best-produced events I’ve ever been to,” says Andrews.

Good Witch of Salem - Ashley Tina, a former teacher, sells all the pretty-in-pink witches gear your heart desires (from hats to toys to crystals) and also hosts workshops and storytelling sessions. “She's built this pink good-witch empire—and she's one of the most impressive entrepreneurs I’ve met in my entire life,” says Andrews.

The Witchery - Whip up your own broomstick at this creative space that has crafting workshops, tarot-reading sessions, and live shows.

Joe’s Fresh Fish Prints - Joe Higgins’s shop sells prints made using gyotaku, a traditional Japanese method of making art with real fish. “It’s getting huge attention, and his work is really unique,” says Scalia.

The Black Veil Shoppe Of Drear & Wonder - Looking for a one-of-a-kind souvenir? Check out this tattoo studio’s new downtown shop. “It’s run by twin brothers and they have nailed it,” says Joyce. “They have incredible artistry.”

The Salem Flea Marketplace - “The Salem Flea Market occasionally does outdoor markets in the town square, but they also have this permanent location where all these independent people set up their little booths,” says Joyce. Meditation kits, old vinyl, disco balls, goth jewelry, vintage clothes—you name it. “It’s cool and eclectic,” he says.